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|    rec.autos.tech    |    Technical aspects of automobiles, et. al    |    117,734 messages    |
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|    Message 117,340 of 117,734    |
|    Xeno to All    |
|    Re: One wire alternator question    |
|    13 May 23 21:05:59    |
      From: xenolith@optusnet.com.au              On 13/5/2023 8:39 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:       > On 5/13/2023 5:33 AM, Xeno wrote:       >> On 12/5/2023 1:37 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:       >>> On 5/11/2023 11:11 PM, Snag wrote:       >>>> On 5/11/2023 9:49 PM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:       >>>>> On 5/11/2023 8:47 PM, Snag wrote:       >>>>>> On 5/10/2023 7:33 PM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:       >>>>>>> On 5/10/2023 9:39 AM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:       >>>>>>>> On 5/10/2023 12:55 AM, Xeno wrote:       >>>>>>>>> On 10/5/2023 3:05 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:       >>>>>>>>>> On 5/9/2023 10:39 AM, Xeno wrote:       >>>>>>>>>>> On 9/5/2023 11:34 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:       >>>>>>>>>>>> On 5/8/2023 11:58 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:       >>>>>>>>>>>>> 1948 Pontiac, 12V battery, one wire alternator (was working       >>>>>>>>>>>>> when parked 12 years ago).       >>>>>>>>>>>>> No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm. Battery voltage       >>>>>>>>>>>>> 12.6V. Battery voltage with car running 13.8V, however amp       >>>>>>>>>>>>> meter only reads 0 or negative with headlights on. Placed       >>>>>>>>>>>>> an after market ammeter between the alternator and the       >>>>>>>>>>>>> battery. Same reading as ammeter in the dash.       >>>>>>>>>>>>> How could this be? Alternator supplies voltage but no       >>>>>>>>>>>>> current.       >>>>>>>>>>>>> After idle for 12 years maybe residual magnetism is gone.       >>>>>>>>>>>>> Needs to be excited. Can't find a YouTube that shows me       >>>>>>>>>>>>> which terminals to zap.       >>>>>>>>>>>>> All help is appreciated. I can certainly buy a new unit,       >>>>>>>>>>>>> but possibly have other problems.       >>>>>>>>>>>>>       >>>>>>>>>>>>> Thank you       >>>>>>>>>>>>       >>>>>>>>>>>> If you get 13.8V when the car is running, that means the       >>>>>>>>>>>> alternator is providing output.       >>>>>>>>>>>>       >>>>>>>>>>>> The alternator output is AC. You need to use AC ammeter to       >>>>>>>>>>>> measure the AC current output from the alternator.       >>>>>>>>>>>>       >>>>>>>>>>> Correction, the alternator output is DC. The 6 internal power       >>>>>>>>>>> diodes provide the necessary rectification. The 3 exciter       >>>>>>>>>>> diodes are meant to excite the field coils and set the       >>>>>>>>>>> generation process into gear.       >>>>>>>>>>>       >>>>>>>>>>       >>>>>>>>>>       >>>>>>>>>> Are you sure that's true for 1948 Pontiac?       >>>>>>>>>>       >>>>>>>>>> Maybe that alternator had been modified to use external       >>>>>>>>>> rectifiers and regulator.       >>>>>>>>>>       >>>>>>>>> Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think       >>>>>>>>> about that for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase.       >>>>>>>>> That means 3 +ve power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter       >>>>>>>>> diodes. If there is only one output wire, then all       >>>>>>>>> *rectification* and control has to be on-board.       >>>>>>>>>       >>>>>>>>       >>>>>>>> If the alternator really has DC output, then the car's [DC]       >>>>>>>> ammeter and external [DC] ammeter should register DC current.       >>>>>>>>       >>>>>>>> I believe somehow the alternator burnt the internal diodes, and       >>>>>>>> the owner rewired it as single phase [AC] output and used       >>>>>>>> external [bridge rectifier] after the car's dashboard [DC]       >>>>>>>> ammeter. That means the dashboard [DC] ammeter has not been       >>>>>>>> working properly ever since [because it was AC coming from the       >>>>>>>> alternator]. A germanium [bridge rectifier] was used so some       >>>>>>>> reverse current is flowing back into the alternator when the       >>>>>>>> engine is not running but the key is on auxiliary. That's when       >>>>>>>> and why the dashboard ammeter registers negative.       >>>>>>>>       >>>>>>>       >>>>>>>       >>>>>>> I've some made minor corrections in square brackets [ ] above to       >>>>>>> clarify my points.       >>>>>>>       >>>>>>> I think I have the correct line of thinking.       >>>>>>>       >>>>>>>       >>>>>>       >>>>>>  It must be quite difficult to blow smoke up somebody's ass with       >>>>>> your head so far up your own .       >>>>>       >>>>>       >>>>> Do you have a better explanation for a DC ammeter not registering       >>>>> any amperage at the alternator other than the alternator is       >>>>> outputting AC?       >>>>>       >>>>> The OP should try using AC ammeter to confirm that the alternator       >>>>> had been rewired to output AC, and external germanium bridge       >>>>> rectifier is used.       >>>>>       >>>>>       >>>>>       >>>>       >>>>  The simplest explanation is that the slip ring brush isn't making       >>>> the circuit to excite the rotor windings . That alone would explain       >>>> the voltage reading 12.8V while running - and slightly higher when       >>>> stopped and there is no current draw for stuff like ignition and       >>>> instruments .       >>>>  The next simplest would be that the internal regulator is bad ,       >>>> also resulting in a lack of charging .       >>>       >>> Your explanation cannot explain the phenomena the OP had observed:       >>>       >>> "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm. Battery voltage 12.6V.       >>> Battery voltage with car running 13.8V, however amp meter only reads       >>> 0 or negative with headlights on. Placed an after market ammeter       >>> between the alternator and the battery. Same reading as ammeter in       >>> the dash.       >>> How could this be? Alternator supplies voltage but no current."       >>>       >>> Apparently the alternator is charging the battery. My explanation,       >>> albeit convoluted, can explain exactly how it is possible. The       >>> previous owner didn't want to buy a new alternator and used this       >>> convoluted way to get by. The previous owner wired the alternator to       >>> output AC, and used external germanium bridge rectifier to get DC. My       >>> thought experiment can explain all the observed phenomena in this case.       >>       >> Ah, a thought experiment! That explains why you don't get it.       >>       >       > Then how do you explain the alternator can charge the battery with no       > apparently DC current output?       >       I can explain it but the issue is with you understanding it. A WOFTAM.              --       Xeno                     Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.        (with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)              --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05        * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)    |
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