From: @.   
      
   On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   > On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:   
   >> Xeno   wrote:   
   >>>   
   >>> Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think about   
   >>> that   
   >>> for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3 +ve   
   >>> power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there is only   
   >>> one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to be   
   >>> on-board.   
   >>   
   >> When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about a series   
   >> of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the Delco 10SI   
   >> and   
   >> including some more modern follow-ons.  These alternators use internal   
   >> rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to the field   
   >> coil) and are very, very foolproof.   
   >>   
   >> Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older cars.  I see   
   >> them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion to a   
   >> modern 12V electrical system.   
   >>   
   >> There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator go bad.   
   >   
   > What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and   
   > vibration would damage the regulator - even with its encapsulation. A   
   > separate regulator mounted on the inner guard or firewall and in the   
   > underhood airflow was a much better arrangement.   
   >   
      
   The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?   
      
   >> Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is that they   
   >> have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external mechanical   
   >> voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.   
   >   
   > Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.   
      
   I have already provided full explanation. You are too boneheaded to   
   understand.   
      
   >>   
   >> But if it is, breaking the connection between the alternator and the   
   >> battery and putting an ammeter in there should certainly show some   
   >> current.  If not... maybe the alternator is not actually connected to   
   >> the battery but is going through an open shunt for the meter that isn't   
   >> working or something like that.   
   >>   
   >> With cars that have been modified like this you don't get a proper   
   >> wiring   
   >> diagram so you are going to need the continuity tester to see what is   
   >> going where.  And yes checking the frame strap is always the first thing   
   >> to do (and make sure the frame strap isn't bolted to a solid block of   
   >> bondo   
   >> --scott   
   >>   
   >   
      
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