From: xenolith@optusnet.com.au   
      
   On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:   
   > Xeno   wrote:   
   >>   
   >> Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think about that   
   >> for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3 +ve   
   >> power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there is only   
   >> one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to be on-board.   
   >   
   > When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about a series   
   > of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the Delco 10SI and   
   > including some more modern follow-ons.  These alternators use internal   
   > rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to the field   
   > coil) and are very, very foolproof.   
   >   
   > Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older cars.  I see   
   > them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion to a   
   > modern 12V electrical system.   
   >   
   > There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator go bad.   
      
   What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and vibration   
   would damage the regulator - even with its encapsulation. A separate   
   regulator mounted on the inner guard or firewall and in the underhood   
   airflow was a much better arrangement.   
      
   > Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is that they   
   > have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external mechanical   
   > voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.   
      
   Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.   
   >   
   > But if it is, breaking the connection between the alternator and the   
   > battery and putting an ammeter in there should certainly show some   
   > current.  If not... maybe the alternator is not actually connected to   
   > the battery but is going through an open shunt for the meter that isn't   
   > working or something like that.   
   >   
   > With cars that have been modified like this you don't get a proper wiring   
   > diagram so you are going to need the continuity tester to see what is   
   > going where.  And yes checking the frame strap is always the first thing   
   > to do (and make sure the frame strap isn't bolted to a solid block of bondo   
   > --scott   
   >   
      
   --   
   Xeno   
      
      
   Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.   
          (with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)