From: xenolith@optusnet.com.au   
      
   On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   > On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   >> On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:   
   >>> Xeno   wrote:   
   >>>>   
   >>>> Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think about   
   >>>> that   
   >>>> for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3 +ve   
   >>>> power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there is only   
   >>>> one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to be   
   >>>> on-board.   
   >>>   
   >>> When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about a series   
   >>> of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the Delco 10SI   
   >>> and   
   >>> including some more modern follow-ons.  These alternators use internal   
   >>> rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to the field   
   >>> coil) and are very, very foolproof.   
   >>>   
   >>> Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older cars.  I see   
   >>> them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion to a   
   >>> modern 12V electrical system.   
   >>>   
   >>> There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator go bad.   
   >>   
   >> What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and   
   >> vibration would damage the regulator - even with its encapsulation. A   
   >> separate regulator mounted on the inner guard or firewall and in the   
   >> underhood airflow was a much better arrangement.   
   >>   
   >   
   > The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?   
      
   The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current. Voltage is   
   *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.   
   >   
   >>> Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is that they   
   >>> have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external mechanical   
   >>> voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.   
   >>   
   >> Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.   
   >   
   > I have already provided full explanation. You are too boneheaded to   
   > understand.   
      
   You have provided proof that you haven't a clue. HTH   
   >   
   >>>   
   >>> But if it is, breaking the connection between the alternator and the   
   >>> battery and putting an ammeter in there should certainly show some   
   >>> current.  If not... maybe the alternator is not actually connected to   
   >>> the battery but is going through an open shunt for the meter that isn't   
   >>> working or something like that.   
   >>>   
   >>> With cars that have been modified like this you don't get a proper   
   >>> wiring   
   >>> diagram so you are going to need the continuity tester to see what is   
   >>> going where.  And yes checking the frame strap is always the first thing   
   >>> to do (and make sure the frame strap isn't bolted to a solid block of   
   >>> bondo   
   >>> --scott   
   >>>   
   >>   
   >   
      
   --   
   Xeno   
      
      
   Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.   
          (with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)