From: xenolith@optusnet.com.au
On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, ๐ Mighty Wannabe โ
wrote:
> On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
>> On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, ๐ Mighty Wannabe โ
wrote:
>>> On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:
>>>> On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
>>>>> Xenoย wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think
>>>>>> about that
>>>>>> for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3 +ve
>>>>>> power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there is
>>>>>> only
>>>>>> one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to be
>>>>>> on-board.
>>>>>
>>>>> When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about a
>>>>> series
>>>>> of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the Delco
>>>>> 10SI and
>>>>> including some more modern follow-ons.ย These alternators use internal
>>>>> rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to the
>>>>> field
>>>>> coil) and are very, very foolproof.
>>>>>
>>>>> Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older cars.ย I
>>>>> see
>>>>> them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion to a
>>>>> modern 12V electrical system.
>>>>>
>>>>> There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator go bad.
>>>>
>>>> What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and
>>>> vibration would damage the regulator - even with its encapsulation.
>>>> A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard or firewall and in
>>>> the underhood airflow was a much better arrangement.
>>>>
>>>
>>> The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?
>>
>> The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current. Voltage is
>> *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
>>>
>>>>> Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is that
>>>>> they
>>>>> have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external mechanical
>>>>> voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
>>>>
>>>> Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.
>>>
>>> I have already provided full explanation. You are too boneheaded to
>>> understand.
>>
>> You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
>
> You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze this
> abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why the OP says
> there is no apparent DC current from the alternator but it can charge
> the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running.
>
> I don't think you can think. Pity.
It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance or a faulty
regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance and continuity
before I condemn the regulator. Testing current with a load, ie.
headlights on, is the usual practice. I used to use a large dummy load,
to test alternator and generator output. I'd also give it a big rev up
since the field coils lose their residual magnetism through long periods
of idleness and a big rev up *usually* provides sufficient self
excitation to kick it off. I have seen the regulators on these fail 50
years ago in the 60s & 70s, as mentioned in another post, when I was
working in the area these things were designed for - farm machinery. I
personally prefer the two wire units as the 2nd wire provides external
field excitation - and you can see that it is doing so by the charge
light on the dash. Lights up with Ign On, Eng Off, goes out when Eng Run
since the light get a +ve at both ends and current through the lamp
ceases. FWIW, the regulators on these typically fail when starting or
stopping the engine so it's quite feasible that it was Ok 12 years ago
when parked. Just thinking about that, it's probably been some 30 or 40
years since I have even seen one of those single wire alternators.
--
Xeno
Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)
--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)
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