From: Paul@Houston.Texas
😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
> On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:
>> On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
>>> On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
>>>> On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
>>>>> On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:
>>>>>> On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
>>>>>>> Xeno wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think
>>>>>>>> about that
>>>>>>>> for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3 +ve
>>>>>>>> power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there
>>>>>>>> is only
>>>>>>>> one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to be
>>>>>>>> on-board.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about a
>>>>>>> series
>>>>>>> of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the Delco
>>>>>>> 10SI and
>>>>>>> including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use
>>>>>>> internal
>>>>>>> rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to
>>>>>>> the field
>>>>>>> coil) and are very, very foolproof.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older cars.
>>>>>>> I see
>>>>>>> them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion to a
>>>>>>> modern 12V electrical system.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator go
>>>>>>> bad.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and
>>>>>> vibration would damage the regulator - even with its
>>>>>> encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard or
>>>>>> firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better arrangement.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?
>>>>
>>>> The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current. Voltage
>>>> is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is
>>>>>>> that they
>>>>>>> have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external
>>>>>>> mechanical
>>>>>>> voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have already provided full explanation. You are too boneheaded to
>>>>> understand.
>>>>
>>>> You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
>>>
>>> You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze this
>>> abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why the OP
>>> says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator but it can
>>> charge the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running.
>>>
>>> I don't think you can think. Pity.
>>
>> It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance
>
>
> If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC] ammeter to
> the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current, then it won't be
> able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next time the battery won't have
> enough juice to crank the motor. Do you have no brain?
>
>
>> or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance and
>> continuity before I condemn the regulator. Testing current with a
>> load, ie. headlights on, is the usual practice.
>
> The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the
> alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?
>
>> I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and generator
>> output. I'd also give it a big rev
>
> The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't you read?
>
> Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question and
> you will realize that you are stupid.
The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.
The op never said what kind of ammeter or voltmeter.
A $10 ammeter would likely not show milliamps.
--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)
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