From: xenolith@optusnet.com.au   
      
   Paul in Houston TX  wrote:   
   > 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   >> On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   >>> On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   >>>> On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   >>>>> On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   >>>>>> On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   >>>>>>> On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:   
   >>>>>>>> Xeno  wrote:   
   >>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>> Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think   
   >>>>>>>>> about that   
   >>>>>>>>> for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3 +ve   
   >>>>>>>>> power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there   
   >>>>>>>>> is only   
   >>>>>>>>> one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to be   
   >>>>>>>>> on-board.   
   >>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>> When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about a   
   >>>>>>>> series   
   >>>>>>>> of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the Delco   
   >>>>>>>> 10SI and   
   >>>>>>>> including some more modern follow-ons.  These alternators use   
   >>>>>>>> internal   
   >>>>>>>> rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to   
   >>>>>>>> the field   
   >>>>>>>> coil) and are very, very foolproof.   
   >>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>> Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older cars.   
   >>>>>>>> I see   
   >>>>>>>> them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion to a   
   >>>>>>>> modern 12V electrical system.   
   >>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>> There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator go   
   >>>>>>>> bad.   
   >>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>> What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and   
   >>>>>>> vibration would damage the regulator - even with its   
   >>>>>>> encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard or   
   >>>>>>> firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better arrangement.   
   >>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>> The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>> The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current. Voltage   
   >>>>> is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>> Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is   
   >>>>>>>> that they   
   >>>>>>>> have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external   
   >>>>>>>> mechanical   
   >>>>>>>> voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.   
   >>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>> Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>> I have already provided full explanation. You are too boneheaded to   
   >>>>>> understand.   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>> You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.   
   >>>>   
   >>>> You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze this   
   >>>> abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why the OP   
   >>>> says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator but it can   
   >>>> charge the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running.   
   >>>>   
   >>>> I don't think you can think. Pity.   
   >>>   
   >>> It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance   
   >>   
   >>   
   >> If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC] ammeter to   
   >> the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current, then it won't be   
   >> able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next time the battery won't have   
   >> enough juice to crank the motor. Do you have no brain?   
   >>   
   >>   
   >>> or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance and   
   >>> continuity before I condemn the regulator. Testing current with a   
   >>> load, ie. headlights on, is the usual practice.   
   >>   
   >> The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the   
   >> alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?   
   >>   
   >>> I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and generator   
   >>> output. I'd also give it a big rev   
   >>   
   >> The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't you read?   
   >>   
   >> Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question and   
   >> you will realize that you are stupid.   
   >   
   > The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.   
   > The op never said what kind of ammeter or voltmeter.   
   > A $10 ammeter would likely not show milliamps.   
   >   
   >   
   Too many unknowns to be definitive. It takes very little current to keep a   
   battery charged but if the alternator is outputting sufficient current to   
   cover standard parasitic loads plus a wee tad more to provide a trickle   
   charge, the battery won’t go flat. Loading the system with, say,   
   headlights, would tell a different story.   
      
   ____   
   Xeno   
      
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