From: @.
On 5/14/2023 5:53 AM, Xeno wrote:
> On 14/5/2023 11:49 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
>> On 5/13/2023 5:51 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:
>>> 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
>>>> On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:
>>>>> On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
>>>>>> On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
>>>>>>> On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> Xeno wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it?
>>>>>>>>>>> Think about that
>>>>>>>>>>> for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That
>>>>>>>>>>> means 3 +ve
>>>>>>>>>>> power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If
>>>>>>>>>>> there is only
>>>>>>>>>>> one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to
>>>>>>>>>>> be on-board.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking
>>>>>>>>>> about a series
>>>>>>>>>> of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the
>>>>>>>>>> Delco 10SI and
>>>>>>>>>> including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use
>>>>>>>>>> internal
>>>>>>>>>> rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses
>>>>>>>>>> to the field
>>>>>>>>>> coil) and are very, very foolproof.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older
>>>>>>>>>> cars. I see
>>>>>>>>>> them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a
>>>>>>>>>> conversion to a
>>>>>>>>>> modern 12V electrical system.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator
>>>>>>>>>> go bad.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and
>>>>>>>>> vibration would damage the regulator - even with its
>>>>>>>>> encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard
>>>>>>>>> or firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better
>>>>>>>>> arrangement.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current.
>>>>>>> Voltage is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is
>>>>>>>>>> that they
>>>>>>>>>> have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external
>>>>>>>>>> mechanical
>>>>>>>>>> voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I have already provided full explanation. You are too
>>>>>>>> boneheaded to understand.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze
>>>>>> this abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why
>>>>>> the OP says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator
>>>>>> but it can charge the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I don't think you can think. Pity.
>>>>>
>>>>> It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC] ammeter
>>>> to the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current, then it
>>>> won't be able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next time the
>>>> battery won't have enough juice to crank the motor. Do you have no
>>>> brain?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance
>>>>> and continuity before I condemn the regulator. Testing current
>>>>> with a load, ie. headlights on, is the usual practice.
>>>>
>>>> The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the
>>>> alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?
>>>>
>>>>> I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and generator
>>>>> output. I'd also give it a big rev
>>>>
>>>> The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't
>>>> you read?
>>>>
>>>> Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question
>>>> and you will realize that you are stupid.
>>>
>>> The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.
>>
>> Then find your reading glasses and read again.
>>
> This is what the OP actually said;
>
>>>>> Battery voltage 12.6V. Battery voltage with car running 13.8V
>
> A battery at 12.6V is *not* a battery that has just been charged.
> Typically a battery that has just come off charge will have a voltage
> *higher* than 12.6V because of surface charge. Once that surface
> charge has has dissipated, a *good* battery should remain at ~12.6V.
>
> If the engine is running, you will *not* be reading *battery voltage*.
> You will be reading *system voltage* which, typically, should be
> between 13.8V-14.2V. IOW, what you are seeing is the alternator output
> voltage. FWIW, cars do not run 12 volt electrical systems. They
> actually run 14 volt systems. The battery is, in general, a load for
> the electrical system and provides a means of starting the engine.
Apparently I am conversing with a dumb arse. I have to keep repeating
myself and you still cannot think outside the box.
If it is simple then the OP wouldn't be confounded and have to post here
to find answers. Somebody had done something to the alternator that he
did know.
The OP definitely said there is no apparent current from the alternator,
but the battery voltages act normal like a battery voltages in a normal
car would.
The only way to explain it, is that the alternator was modified to
output AC, and a germanium bridge rectifier was used external to the
alternator.
My explanation can explain all the abnormal phenomena like no DC current
from the alternator detected by the ammeter, and reverse DC current
detected when the engine is not running but the car key is on.
I am sick and tired of repeating myself to a dumb arse who cannot think
outside the box. You should read the OP's first post carefully and read
my replies to his post carefully.
Goodbye and please don't reply again.
--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)
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