From: xenolith@optusnet.com.au
On 14/5/2023 11:49 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
> On 5/13/2023 5:51 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:
>> 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
>>> On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:
>>>> On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
>>>>> On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
>>>>>> On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
>>>>>>> On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
>>>>>>>>> Xeno wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think
>>>>>>>>>> about that
>>>>>>>>>> for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means
>>>>>>>>>> 3 +ve
>>>>>>>>>> power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If
>>>>>>>>>> there is only
>>>>>>>>>> one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to
>>>>>>>>>> be on-board.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about
>>>>>>>>> a series
>>>>>>>>> of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the
>>>>>>>>> Delco 10SI and
>>>>>>>>> including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use
>>>>>>>>> internal
>>>>>>>>> rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to
>>>>>>>>> the field
>>>>>>>>> coil) and are very, very foolproof.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older
>>>>>>>>> cars. I see
>>>>>>>>> them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion
>>>>>>>>> to a
>>>>>>>>> modern 12V electrical system.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator
>>>>>>>>> go bad.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and
>>>>>>>> vibration would damage the regulator - even with its
>>>>>>>> encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard
>>>>>>>> or firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better
>>>>>>>> arrangement.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current.
>>>>>> Voltage is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is
>>>>>>>>> that they
>>>>>>>>> have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external
>>>>>>>>> mechanical
>>>>>>>>> voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I have already provided full explanation. You are too boneheaded
>>>>>>> to understand.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
>>>>>
>>>>> You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze this
>>>>> abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why the OP
>>>>> says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator but it can
>>>>> charge the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running.
>>>>>
>>>>> I don't think you can think. Pity.
>>>>
>>>> It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance
>>>
>>>
>>> If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC] ammeter
>>> to the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current, then it won't
>>> be able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next time the battery
>>> won't have enough juice to crank the motor. Do you have no brain?
>>>
>>>
>>>> or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance
>>>> and continuity before I condemn the regulator. Testing current with
>>>> a load, ie. headlights on, is the usual practice.
>>>
>>> The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the
>>> alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?
>>>
>>>> I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and generator
>>>> output. I'd also give it a big rev
>>>
>>> The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't you
>>> read?
>>>
>>> Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question and
>>> you will realize that you are stupid.
>>
>> The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.
>
> Then find your reading glasses and read again.
>
This is what the OP actually said;
>>>> Battery voltage 12.6V. Battery voltage with car running 13.8V
A battery at 12.6V is *not* a battery that has just been charged.
Typically a battery that has just come off charge will have a voltage
*higher* than 12.6V because of surface charge. Once that surface charge
has has dissipated, a *good* battery should remain at ~12.6V.
If the engine is running, you will *not* be reading *battery voltage*.
You will be reading *system voltage* which, typically, should be between
13.8V-14.2V. IOW, what you are seeing is the alternator output voltage.
FWIW, cars do not run 12 volt electrical systems. They actually run 14
volt systems. The battery is, in general, a load for the electrical
system and provides a means of starting the engine.
>
>>
>> The op never said what kind of ammeter or voltmeter.
>
>
> The OP said the external ammeter corroborates with the car's dashboard
> ammeter. Can't you read?
>
Not the issue.
>
>>
>> A $10 ammeter would likely not show milliamps.
>>
>
> NO car ammeter deals with milliamp. Do you have a brain?
No need when the typical alternator of this era was capable of 30-40
Amps output. Output at 1 amp would be a *float charge*.
--
Xeno
Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)
--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)
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