From: @.   
      
   On 5/14/2023 8:18 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   > On 14/5/2023 9:29 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   >> On 5/14/2023 5:53 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   >>> On 14/5/2023 11:49 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   >>>> On 5/13/2023 5:51 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:   
   >>>>> 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   >>>>>> On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   >>>>>>> On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   >>>>>>>> On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   >>>>>>>>> On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   >>>>>>>>>> On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   >>>>>>>>>>> On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> Xeno  wrote:   
   >>>>>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>>>>> Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it?   
   >>>>>>>>>>>>> Think about that   
   >>>>>>>>>>>>> for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That   
   >>>>>>>>>>>>> means 3 +ve   
   >>>>>>>>>>>>> power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If   
   >>>>>>>>>>>>> there is only   
   >>>>>>>>>>>>> one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has   
   >>>>>>>>>>>>> to be on-board.   
   >>>>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> about a series   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> Delco 10SI and   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> use internal   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> to the field   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> coil) and are very, very foolproof.   
   >>>>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> cars. I see   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> conversion to a   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> modern 12V electrical system.   
   >>>>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> There isn't much to go wrong other than having the   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> alternator go bad.   
   >>>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>>> What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat   
   >>>>>>>>>>> and vibration would damage the regulator - even with its   
   >>>>>>>>>>> encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner   
   >>>>>>>>>>> guard or firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much   
   >>>>>>>>>>> better arrangement.   
   >>>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>> The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?   
   >>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>> The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current.   
   >>>>>>>>> Voltage is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.   
   >>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> is that they   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> mechanical   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.   
   >>>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>>> Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.   
   >>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>> I have already provided full explanation. You are too   
   >>>>>>>>>> boneheaded to understand.   
   >>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>> You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.   
   >>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>> You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze   
   >>>>>>>> this abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question   
   >>>>>>>> why the OP says there is no apparent DC current from the   
   >>>>>>>> alternator but it can charge the battery to 13.8V when the   
   >>>>>>>> engine is running.   
   >>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>> I don't think you can think. Pity.   
   >>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>> It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>> If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC]   
   >>>>>> ammeter to the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current,   
   >>>>>> then it won't be able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next   
   >>>>>> time the battery won't have enough juice to crank the motor. Do   
   >>>>>> you have no brain?   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>>> or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for   
   >>>>>>> resistance and continuity before I condemn the regulator.   
   >>>>>>> Testing current with a load, ie. headlights on, is the usual   
   >>>>>>> practice.   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>> The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the   
   >>>>>> alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>>> I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and   
   >>>>>>> generator output. I'd also give it a big rev   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>> The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't   
   >>>>>> you read?   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>> Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question   
   >>>>>> and you will realize that you are stupid.   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>> The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.   
   >>>>   
   >>>> Then find your reading glasses and read again.   
   >>>>   
   >>> This is what the OP actually said;   
   >>>   
   >>>>>>> Battery voltage 12.6V.  Battery voltage with car running 13.8V   
   >>>   
   >>> A battery at 12.6V is *not* a battery that has just been charged.   
   >>> Typically a battery that has just come off charge will have a   
   >>> voltage *higher* than 12.6V because of surface charge. Once that   
   >>> surface charge has has dissipated, a *good* battery should remain at   
   >>> ~12.6V.   
   >>>   
   >>> If the engine is running, you will *not* be reading *battery   
   >>> voltage*. You will be reading *system voltage* which, typically,   
   >>> should be between 13.8V-14.2V. IOW, what you are seeing is the   
   >>> alternator output voltage. FWIW, cars do not run 12 volt electrical   
   >>> systems. They actually run 14 volt systems. The battery is, in   
   >>> general, a load for the electrical system and provides a means of   
   >>> starting the engine.   
   >>   
   >>   
   >> Apparently I am conversing with a dumb arse. I have to keep repeating   
   >> myself and you still cannot think outside the box.   
   >>   
   >> If it is simple then the OP wouldn't be confounded and have to post   
   >> here to find answers. Somebody had done something to the alternator   
   >> that he did know.   
   >>   
   >> The OP definitely said there is no apparent current from the   
   >> alternator, but the battery voltages act normal like a battery   
   >> voltages in a normal car would.   
   >>   
   >> The only way to explain it, is that the alternator was modified to   
   >> output AC, and a germanium bridge rectifier was used external to the   
   >> alternator.   
   >>   
   >> My explanation can explain all the abnormal phenomena like no DC   
   >> current from the alternator detected by the ammeter, and reverse DC   
   >> current detected when the engine is not running but the car key is on.   
   >>   
   >> I am sick and tired of repeating myself to a dumb arse who cannot   
   >> think outside the box. You should read the OP's first post carefully   
   >> and read my replies to his post carefully.   
   >>   
   >> Goodbye and please don't reply again.   
   >>   
   > Promise   
   >   
      
   Good. And stay stupid.   
      
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