From: xenolith@optusnet.com.au   
      
   On 14/5/2023 9:29 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   > On 5/14/2023 5:53 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   >> On 14/5/2023 11:49 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   >>> On 5/13/2023 5:51 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:   
   >>>> 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   >>>>> On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   >>>>>> On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   >>>>>>> On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   >>>>>>>> On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   >>>>>>>>> On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   >>>>>>>>>> On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:   
   >>>>>>>>>>> Xeno  wrote:   
   >>>>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it?   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> Think about that   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> means 3 +ve   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> there is only   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to   
   >>>>>>>>>>>> be on-board.   
   >>>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>>> When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking   
   >>>>>>>>>>> about a series   
   >>>>>>>>>>> of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the   
   >>>>>>>>>>> Delco 10SI and   
   >>>>>>>>>>> including some more modern follow-ons.  These alternators use   
   >>>>>>>>>>> internal   
   >>>>>>>>>>> rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses   
   >>>>>>>>>>> to the field   
   >>>>>>>>>>> coil) and are very, very foolproof.   
   >>>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>>> Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older   
   >>>>>>>>>>> cars. I see   
   >>>>>>>>>>> them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a   
   >>>>>>>>>>> conversion to a   
   >>>>>>>>>>> modern 12V electrical system.   
   >>>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>>> There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator   
   >>>>>>>>>>> go bad.   
   >>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>> What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and   
   >>>>>>>>>> vibration would damage the regulator - even with its   
   >>>>>>>>>> encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard   
   >>>>>>>>>> or firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better   
   >>>>>>>>>> arrangement.   
   >>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>> The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?   
   >>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>> The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current.   
   >>>>>>>> Voltage is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.   
   >>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>>> Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is   
   >>>>>>>>>>> that they   
   >>>>>>>>>>> have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external   
   >>>>>>>>>>> mechanical   
   >>>>>>>>>>> voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.   
   >>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>> Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.   
   >>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>> I have already provided full explanation. You are too   
   >>>>>>>>> boneheaded to understand.   
   >>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>> You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.   
   >>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>> You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze   
   >>>>>>> this abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why   
   >>>>>>> the OP says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator   
   >>>>>>> but it can charge the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running.   
   >>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>> I don't think you can think. Pity.   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>> It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>> If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC] ammeter   
   >>>>> to the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current, then it   
   >>>>> won't be able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next time the   
   >>>>> battery won't have enough juice to crank the motor. Do you have no   
   >>>>> brain?   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>>> or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance   
   >>>>>> and continuity before I condemn the regulator. Testing current   
   >>>>>> with a load, ie. headlights on, is the usual practice.   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>> The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the   
   >>>>> alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>>> I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and generator   
   >>>>>> output. I'd also give it a big rev   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>> The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't   
   >>>>> you read?   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>> Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question   
   >>>>> and you will realize that you are stupid.   
   >>>>   
   >>>> The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.   
   >>>   
   >>> Then find your reading glasses and read again.   
   >>>   
   >> This is what the OP actually said;   
   >>   
   >>>>>> Battery voltage 12.6V.  Battery voltage with car running 13.8V   
   >>   
   >> A battery at 12.6V is *not* a battery that has just been charged.   
   >> Typically a battery that has just come off charge will have a voltage   
   >> *higher* than 12.6V because of surface charge. Once that surface   
   >> charge has has dissipated, a *good* battery should remain at ~12.6V.   
   >>   
   >> If the engine is running, you will *not* be reading *battery voltage*.   
   >> You will be reading *system voltage* which, typically, should be   
   >> between 13.8V-14.2V. IOW, what you are seeing is the alternator output   
   >> voltage. FWIW, cars do not run 12 volt electrical systems. They   
   >> actually run 14 volt systems. The battery is, in general, a load for   
   >> the electrical system and provides a means of starting the engine.   
   >   
   >   
   > Apparently I am conversing with a dumb arse. I have to keep repeating   
   > myself and you still cannot think outside the box.   
   >   
   > If it is simple then the OP wouldn't be confounded and have to post here   
   > to find answers. Somebody had done something to the alternator that he   
   > did know.   
   >   
   > The OP definitely said there is no apparent current from the alternator,   
   > but the battery voltages act normal like a battery voltages in a normal   
   > car would.   
   >   
   > The only way to explain it, is that the alternator was modified to   
   > output AC, and a germanium bridge rectifier was used external to the   
   > alternator.   
   >   
   > My explanation can explain all the abnormal phenomena like no DC current   
   > from the alternator detected by the ammeter, and reverse DC current   
   > detected when the engine is not running but the car key is on.   
   >   
   > I am sick and tired of repeating myself to a dumb arse who cannot think   
   > outside the box. You should read the OP's first post carefully and read   
   > my replies to his post carefully.   
   >   
   > Goodbye and please don't reply again.   
   >   
   Promise????   
      
   --   
   Xeno   
      
      
   Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.   
          (with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)