From: xenolith@optusnet.com.au
😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ <@.> wrote:
> On 5/14/2023 8:18 AM, Xeno wrote:
>> On 14/5/2023 9:29 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
>>> On 5/14/2023 5:53 AM, Xeno wrote:
>>>> On 14/5/2023 11:49 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
>>>>> On 5/13/2023 5:51 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:
>>>>>> 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
>>>>>>> On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Xeno wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Think about that
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> means 3 +ve
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> there is only
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to be on-board.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking
>>>>>>>>>>>>> about a series
>>>>>>>>>>>>> of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Delco 10SI and
>>>>>>>>>>>>> including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators
>>>>>>>>>>>>> use internal
>>>>>>>>>>>>> rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses
>>>>>>>>>>>>> to the field
>>>>>>>>>>>>> coil) and are very, very foolproof.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older
>>>>>>>>>>>>> cars. I see
>>>>>>>>>>>>> them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a
>>>>>>>>>>>>> conversion to a
>>>>>>>>>>>>> modern 12V electrical system.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> There isn't much to go wrong other than having the
>>>>>>>>>>>>> alternator go bad.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat
>>>>>>>>>>>> and vibration would damage the regulator - even with its
>>>>>>>>>>>> encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner
>>>>>>>>>>>> guard or firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much
>>>>>>>>>>>> better arrangement.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current.
>>>>>>>>>> Voltage is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem
>>>>>>>>>>>>> is that they
>>>>>>>>>>>>> have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external
>>>>>>>>>>>>> mechanical
>>>>>>>>>>>>> voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I have already provided full explanation. You are too
>>>>>>>>>>> boneheaded to understand.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze
>>>>>>>>> this abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question
>>>>>>>>> why the OP says there is no apparent DC current from the
>>>>>>>>> alternator but it can charge the battery to 13.8V when the
>>>>>>>>> engine is running.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I don't think you can think. Pity.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC]
>>>>>>> ammeter to the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current,
>>>>>>> then it won't be able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next
>>>>>>> time the battery won't have enough juice to crank the motor. Do
>>>>>>> you have no brain?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for
>>>>>>>> resistance and continuity before I condemn the regulator.
>>>>>>>> Testing current with a load, ie. headlights on, is the usual
>>>>>>>> practice.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the
>>>>>>> alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and
>>>>>>>> generator output. I'd also give it a big rev
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't
>>>>>>> you read?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question
>>>>>>> and you will realize that you are stupid.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.
>>>>>
>>>>> Then find your reading glasses and read again.
>>>>>
>>>> This is what the OP actually said;
>>>>
>>>>>>>> Battery voltage 12.6V. Battery voltage with car running 13.8V
>>>>
>>>> A battery at 12.6V is *not* a battery that has just been charged.
>>>> Typically a battery that has just come off charge will have a
>>>> voltage *higher* than 12.6V because of surface charge. Once that
>>>> surface charge has has dissipated, a *good* battery should remain at
>>>> ~12.6V.
>>>>
>>>> If the engine is running, you will *not* be reading *battery
>>>> voltage*. You will be reading *system voltage* which, typically,
>>>> should be between 13.8V-14.2V. IOW, what you are seeing is the
>>>> alternator output voltage. FWIW, cars do not run 12 volt electrical
>>>> systems. They actually run 14 volt systems. The battery is, in
>>>> general, a load for the electrical system and provides a means of
>>>> starting the engine.
>>>
>>>
>>> Apparently I am conversing with a dumb arse. I have to keep repeating
>>> myself and you still cannot think outside the box.
>>>
>>> If it is simple then the OP wouldn't be confounded and have to post
>>> here to find answers. Somebody had done something to the alternator
>>> that he did know.
>>>
>>> The OP definitely said there is no apparent current from the
>>> alternator, but the battery voltages act normal like a battery
>>> voltages in a normal car would.
>>>
>>> The only way to explain it, is that the alternator was modified to
>>> output AC, and a germanium bridge rectifier was used external to the
>>> alternator.
>>>
>>> My explanation can explain all the abnormal phenomena like no DC
>>> current from the alternator detected by the ammeter, and reverse DC
>>> current detected when the engine is not running but the car key is on.
>>>
>>> I am sick and tired of repeating myself to a dumb arse who cannot
>>> think outside the box. You should read the OP's first post carefully
>>> and read my replies to his post carefully.
>>>
>>> Goodbye and please don't reply again.
>>>
>> Promise
>>
>
> Good. And stay stupid.
>
You lied
____
Xeno
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