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   rec.autos.tech      Technical aspects of automobiles, et. al      117,728 messages   

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   =?UTF-8?B?8J+YjiBNaWdodHkgV2FubmFiZ to Paul in Houston TX   
   Re: One wire alternator question   
   14 May 23 22:33:55   
   
   From: @.   
      
   On 5/14/2023 9:42 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:   
   > 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   >> On 5/13/2023 5:51 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:   
   >>> 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   >>>> On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   >>>>> On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   >>>>>> On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   >>>>>>> On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:   
   >>>>>>>> On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:   
   >>>>>>>>> On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:   
   >>>>>>>>>> Xeno  wrote:   
   >>>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>>> Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it?   
   >>>>>>>>>>> Think about that   
   >>>>>>>>>>> for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That   
   >>>>>>>>>>> means 3 +ve   
   >>>>>>>>>>> power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If   
   >>>>>>>>>>> there is only   
   >>>>>>>>>>> one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to   
   >>>>>>>>>>> be on-board.   
   >>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>> When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking   
   >>>>>>>>>> about a series   
   >>>>>>>>>> of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the   
   >>>>>>>>>> Delco 10SI and   
   >>>>>>>>>> including some more modern follow-ons.  These alternators use   
   >>>>>>>>>> internal   
   >>>>>>>>>> rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses   
   >>>>>>>>>> to the field   
   >>>>>>>>>> coil) and are very, very foolproof.   
   >>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>> Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older   
   >>>>>>>>>> cars. I see   
   >>>>>>>>>> them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a   
   >>>>>>>>>> conversion to a   
   >>>>>>>>>> modern 12V electrical system.   
   >>>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>> There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator   
   >>>>>>>>>> go bad.   
   >>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>> What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and   
   >>>>>>>>> vibration would damage the regulator - even with its   
   >>>>>>>>> encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard   
   >>>>>>>>> or firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better   
   >>>>>>>>> arrangement.   
   >>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>> The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?   
   >>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>> The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current.   
   >>>>>>> Voltage is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.   
   >>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>>> Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is   
   >>>>>>>>>> that they   
   >>>>>>>>>> have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external   
   >>>>>>>>>> mechanical   
   >>>>>>>>>> voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.   
   >>>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>>> Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.   
   >>>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>>> I have already provided full explanation. You are too   
   >>>>>>>> boneheaded to understand.   
   >>>>>>>   
   >>>>>>> You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>> You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze   
   >>>>>> this abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why   
   >>>>>> the OP says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator   
   >>>>>> but it can charge the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running.   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>> I don't think you can think. Pity.   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>> It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance   
   >>>>   
   >>>>   
   >>>> If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC] ammeter   
   >>>> to the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current, then it   
   >>>> won't be able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next time the   
   >>>> battery won't have enough juice to crank the motor. Do you have no   
   >>>> brain?   
   >>>>   
   >>>>   
   >>>>> or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance   
   >>>>> and continuity before I condemn the regulator. Testing current   
   >>>>> with a load, ie. headlights on, is the usual practice.   
   >>>>   
   >>>> The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the   
   >>>> alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?   
   >>>>   
   >>>>> I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and generator   
   >>>>> output. I'd also give it a big rev   
   >>>>   
   >>>> The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't   
   >>>> you read?   
   >>>>   
   >>>> Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question   
   >>>> and you will realize that you are stupid.   
   >>>   
   >>> The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.   
   >>   
   >> Then find your reading glasses and read again.   
   >>   
   >>   
   >>>   
   >>> The op never said what kind of ammeter or voltmeter.   
   >>   
   >>   
   >> The OP said the external ammeter corroborates with the car's   
   >> dashboard ammeter. Can't you read?   
   >>   
   >>   
   >>>   
   >>> A $10 ammeter would likely not show milliamps.   
   >>>   
   >>   
   >> NO car ammeter deals with milliamp. Do you have a brain?   
   >>   
   >   
   > You obviously have no knowledge of basic electricity or electronics   
   > and are just a troll.   
   > By the way, there are no germanium power rectifiers.   
      
   Before silicon there were only germanium rectifiers. It was an old car   
   so most likely the person who modified the car used germanium bridge   
   rectifier. A germanium rectifier has lower forward voltage, so in high   
   current application germanium rectifier will consume less power and   
   generate less heat. That makes it more likely to be used in cars because   
   of the high current and low 12V battery. Germanium rectifier has higher   
   reverse leakage current than silicon rectifiers. In this case it   
   explains perfectly why the OP says the ammeter has negative current flow   
   when the engine is not running but the key is on.   
      
   Apparently you have no imagination to diagnose abnormal situation like   
   this. The OP says there is no apparent [DC] current from the alternator   
   but the battery behaves like normal with a rest voltage and a running   
   voltage. And there is reverse [DC] current when the car is not running   
   but the key is on.   
      
   The reverse current is the current from the battery leaking through the   
   germanium bridge rectifier back into the alternator coil.   
      
   As I have explained in detail in my previous posts in this thread, long   
   time ago somebody did not fix the alternator problem, and simply used   
   the AC from the alternator to connect to a germanium bridge rectifier   
   hidden somewhere inside the dashboard.   
      
   By the way, my education background is electrical engineering in university.   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)   

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