From: ohg...@gmail.com   
      
   On Tuesday, August 30, 2022 at 9:40:08 AM UTC-4, kayge wrote:   
   > Hi and thanks so much for the help. Pretty sure the LED's are 3V as my    
   > meter on diode check only puts out a little over 2V. My meter is able to    
   > make the LED's light up dimly, but enough to see if they're working.    
   > Unplugged ribbon from main to TCON, no change. I didn't see a rest switch    
   > near the RF connector but rather on the adjacent side near composite video    
   > and stereo audio inputs (phono or RCA jacks) I pressed this for 15 sec.    
   > like you said, no change. Any other ideas? If not I give up and I'm    
   > sending the boards back.   
      
   Long shot but easy to try: unplug the wifi card and see if the main responds.   
      
   There are two versions of the Hisense 58R6E apparently, different main boards   
   but they use the same power supply.  Did you measure the voltage on XP702 pins   
   2N and 2P?  If you are getting a large voltage (150 plus) but no visible flash   
   from the back    
   lights as seen from the back side of the display, you still have a problem   
   inside the display.  I'm assuming your LED strips are new, but if you bought   
   used ones, there's a high probability they're bad.  I've also found bad   
   connectors that plug into the    
   LED strips.  I never reassemble any display until the back light runs for at   
   least an hour. If you are not getting that voltage kick on that connector,   
   then the problem is one of the boards.   
      
   If you are getting no voltage/flash on the back lights, then check the "STB"   
   line on the power supply connector.  On these, the stb is not the standby   
   voltage for the main as you might expect, but the turn on command from the   
   main (counter intuitive but    
   this is the crap we run across).  The STB line takes the power supply *out* of   
   standby on these TVs and puts the supply in full run. The actual standby   
   voltage from this power supply is your 12v, which is there because you're   
   getting your red power LED    
   blinking.  So check the STB line for voltage to the ground screw near the   
   connector. The STB line should go high (3.3-5V prob) when you push the power   
   button.  If you are getting a high on the STB, then check the voltage on the   
   two 450V PFC caps.  The    
   voltage on those caps should be close to 400V.  If you get a command on the   
   STB but the voltage on the PFC caps stays low (about 160V but doesn't go to   
   400V), then your PFC controller IC on the bottom of the power supply board is   
   probably  bad.  It's    
   surface mount but they are available.  They do have a drop of glue underneath   
   so it's a good idea to heat it well with hot air before you remove it.  If the   
   400V comes up, it's either the LED supply section of the power supply or the   
   back light command    
   from the main (BRI) isn't there.   
      
   If you get no command on the  STB line from the remote or  power button being   
   pushed, the main is not commanding the power supply to turn on and the main is   
   your problem.     
      
   Any boards you are buying are salvage boards, and I know from experience that   
   these are NOT checked despite what the seller tells you.  When I'm forced to   
   buy a board, I find about 30% of them bad when I get them.   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)