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|    sci.electronics.repair    |    Fixing electronic equipment    |    124,925 messages    |
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|    Message 123,064 of 124,925    |
|    ohger1s@gmail.com to kayge    |
|    Re: backlights #2    |
|    05 Sep 22 10:23:44    |
      From: ohg...@gmail.com              On Saturday, September 3, 2022 at 2:35:44 PM UTC-4, kayge wrote:       > On Fri, 02 Sep 2022 09:32:14 -0700, ohg...@gmail.com wrote:        >        > > On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 4:53:29 PM UTC-4, kayge wrote:        > >> Well, well, aren't you sharp! I'm going through the backlight chain one        > >> by one INCLUDING connectors. The originals were 5 strips of 10 LED's,        > >> but the replacements are 10 strips of 5 tied by a connector. Sure        > >> enough one of the lines wasn't making it through one of the connectors.        > >> I will go through the rest of the chain tomorrow and repair any breaks.        > >> My friend will be super happy if I fix this as they aren't terribly        > >> well off. Just curious, where are you from? North Florida USA here.        > >        > >        > > I'm in Wolcott Connecticut.        > >        > > I have seen a lot of those interconnects cause problems from flickering        > > to no function at all, but never on new strips. I have a feeling you        > > ended up with pulls. There should be zero resistance across the        > > connectors. After you fix the bad one make sure they ALL are zero ohms.        > > If any are a few tenths of an ohm or higher, jump them all out with        > > short insulated wires, otherwise you'll be back inside at some point.        > > Even if they test good with an ohmmeter they may show some voltage drop        > > across them. There of course should be 0.0V drop across the connectors.        > >        > > If this TV has a back light adjustment in the customer menu, lower it to        > > just above half to preserve the LED array. If it doesn't have an        > > adjustable setting in the menu, let me know and I'll show you what        > > resistor to change to lower the global current.              > Thanks for all your help my friend, got the backlight issue fixed by        > jumping around that bad connector, but it doesn't matter if your display        > is cracked to shit. I had no idea they were so fragile and I even have the        > thing on a queen bed. I take it any flexing of the display and it's toast.              They are fragile, which is why I posted this in one of your earlier threads:              "General comments on display removal: be very careful with the bonded ribbons       - try not to flex them much. If the display is held down with double sided       tape, make sure to carefully life the screen out. I use a heat gun (carefully)       to heat up each side        one by one, and with a small suction cup, pull up while sliding a thin plastic       shiv along working until the side is free.. If you try to lift the screen       without releasing the tape, the screen WILL crack. Make sure those sheets go       back *exactly* as they        came out. If you get one upside or backwards or out of order, it will affect       the picture as at least one of the sheets is a polarizer. Make sure the four       corners of the display itself are safely nestled inside the frame. You can use       a combination of feel        and magnification if necessary to make sure the screen isn't sitting on the       lip even by a micrometer. If the display isn't tucked properly inside the       frame, it WILL crack when you snap the outer mask back in place."                     If it's any consolation, I've walked dozens of people through LED repairs       on-line, and I honestly can't remember more than one or two at most that did       not suffer a screen failure.              Also, just because the TV presented with bad LEDs doesn't preclude the       possibility that it was broken before you even attempted it.               When I do an LED job, I look over the screen carefully with a bright light       looking for a cracked glass layer under the outer dark tinted plastic layer       which does a good job of hiding an internal crack. If that looks OK, I remove       the screen and hold it        up over my head like I was presenting a gift to the Gods so I can spot a crack       against the backlighting of my shop fluorescent lights. If there are no       visible cracks, I keep going.               --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05        * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)    |
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