From: ehsjr@verizon.net   
      
   On 1/23/2023 12:33 PM, RonTheGuy wrote:   
   > 2-car garage door won't open but five inches under certain circumstances.   
   > Closes just fine.   
   >   
   > However   
   > (1) If I open from the inside wall switch, it always opens.   
   > (2) But if I open from the remote control, it often stops after 5 inches.   
   >   
   > You'd think it's the remote but when I use the outside remote that is   
   > mounted to the wall, it does the same thing, so it's not the remote per se.   
   >   
   > Replaced the remote batteries anyway.   
   > Same thing.   
   >   
   > The springs are big fat dual springs, which are about five years old or so.   
   > If they're "sagging", I don't see any physical evidence of that weakening.   
   >   
   > There was an original red paint line which the manufacturer painted onto   
   > the unwound spring which is now a spiral when wound, understandably so.   
   >   
   > I had painted a thin white line across the wound springs when they were   
   > installed and that line doesn't appear to have moved. It's still straight.   
   >   
   > I air blasted the rollers and track and greased but it made little to no   
   > difference and I cleaned the mechanism inside the garage door opener.   
   >   
   > What appears to be what's happening is the garage door opener, which has to   
   > be twenty years old if not older, is suddenly "needing" more time to start.   
   >   
   > Can that be?   
   > Is there an adjustment in the garage door opener itself for pulse time?   
   >   
   > Since the door opens fully if it has "more time" on the switch,   
   > is there any way to make a remote 'stay on' longer than just a pulse?   
   >   
   > Ron, the humblest guy in town.   
      
   Here's a possibility: bad electrolytic capacitor in   
   the receiver power supply (inside the ceiling mounted   
   opener motor housing). What *may* be happening: the   
   direction relay (up or down) in the receiver is   
   "chattering" (not fully transferring, allowing the   
   contacts to bounce far more than usual) when activated   
   by the remote due to pulsing voltage from the supply.   
   The same pulsing voltage, when applied to the relay by   
   the wall switch is applied for a longer time, allowing   
   the relay to fully transfer.   
      
   You have to know what you're doing to safely diagnose   
   and repair this.  Openers can bite your fingers HARD,   
   and testing live (120VAC) circuits while on a ladder   
   presents it's own possible hazards. If you have the   
   skill, you can do it safely.   
      
   Good luck.   
   Ed   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)