From: clsnowyowl@gmail.com   
      
   On Tuesday, January 28, 2020 at 10:29:06 AM UTC-6, Tempestinatesttube wrote:   
   > Hi, I just acquired one of the Smirnoff lightning lamps from a local   
   > sale. Unfortunately, it worked for an hour and then stopped and hasn't   
   > worked since. I took off the bottom cover which revealed a small   
   > flyback, what looks like a couple of mosfets, a driver transformer or   
   > two, and maybe a timer.   
   >   
   > Specifically, it is called the "Smirnoff Tempest Bar Glorifier" made in   
   > Korea for Neu Solutions. Unfortunately, they haven't been made in   
   > nearly 20 years.   
   >   
   > Does anyone know of a service manual and/or schematic for this device?   
   > I'm having no luck googling for it.   
   >   
   > Fortunately, I am going to be able to borrow a working unit. If anyone   
   > wants to roll up their sleeves and help me troubleshoot using the   
   > working one as a template, please share. I'd be more than willing to   
   > post pictures of the circuit board, components, etc.   
   >   
   > I think the first thing I will do with the working unit is take   
   > resistance readings of all components while off and discharged. Then,   
   > while on, take voltage readings of the same. I don't have enough   
   > experience to try reverse engineering a schematic which is why it would   
   > be oh so helpful to find one from the manufacturer.   
   >   
   > Any information provided would be welcome. I'd really like to get my   
   > broken one back in working order again! Tips, measurements, etc   
   > welcome.   
   >   
   > Thanks in advance,   
   > Tempy   
      
   I do not want to say anything here that would warrant any doubts. There are a   
   few ways to convert   
   voltage on the lamp. Therefore, I would check on line for a service manual on   
   the lamp based upon   
   the model number of the lamp and the date of manufacture.   
      
   Most lamps I diagnose are alternating current (AC) type lamps and they are   
   polarized. These lamps   
   I repair typical have sockets that are compatible with incandescent (standard   
   light bulb in a house),   
   energy saving bulbs, or led based lamps. I say this because you may have a   
   voltage convertor lamp   
   with special properties (hence the driver transistors you indicated). Also, I   
   usually look at the lamp   
   unit when it is out of service, disconnected from any power source or plug,   
   and run a continuity   
   check (one end to the other) of each wire on each end at a time to find any   
   breaks in the physical   
   wiring and/or connections with the DMM (digital multi-meter) or DVM (digital   
   volt meter). By having   
   the lamp out of circuit and checking continuity, I can also safely check for   
   "opens" or "shorts" in   
   the lamp wiring. In same cases, lamps can have 2 or three modes (on, dim,   
   medium bright, and/or   
   bright- depending on what type and what wattage of bulb used). As a caution,   
   never use a bulb that   
   exceeds the rating of a lamp- (example- never use a 100 watt bulb for a socket   
   rated at only 40 watts   
   due to excessive heat which can be a fire hazard or start a fire).   
      
   Be careful when you do voltage checks when lamp is in circuit. Remember, with   
   switches in off   
   position, only half the circuit works (for the off reads zero [0] volts)-   
   prior to that point on lamps   
   with AC is about 120 Volts AC (this is with polarized AC as well and for   
   devices with electrical   
   ground). All of that stuff follows a color coding system for safety. Note, you   
   can have specialty   
   DC (direct current) lamps or battery powered flashlights, lanterns, etc...   
   however, DC powered   
   table lamps and upright lanterns are extremely rare. Prior to all of that was   
   standard kerosene   
   and gas powered light or gaslight.   
      
   Any questions, please feel free to ask. I am answering the basics for safety   
   reasons. If you are not   
   sure, either get more information, or have a professional do the work.   
      
   Hope the information here helps. Good Luck.   
      
   Sincerely,   
      
      
   Charles Lucas   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)